Day 3 on the Amalfi Coast—Anchovies, Ceramics, and Coastal Magic

Cetara and Vietri sul Mare: Living by the Map, Not the Calendar

That part of the trip where you forget what day it is… but you know it’s Cetara and Vietri sul Mare day! These are the kinds of places that make you slow down and just be — small fishing villages filled with color, character, and the hum of everyday life that feels untouched by time. We were living by the map, not the calendar, and it was glorious.

We began the morning in Vietri sul Mare, a town famous for its ceramics — and for good reason. Every street seems to sparkle with color: plates, tiles, and pottery displayed outside the shops like little bursts of sunshine. I have a relative who makes ceramics, so of course we had to visit her shop, Falcone Oriana, among the many others that line the streets. Their pieces are actually made in a nearby town, Cava de’ Tirreni, where there’s enough space for the kiln, and then brought to the Vietri storefront to sell. You can see their beautiful work here on Instagram .

After a little (okay, a lot of) shopping, we had lunch by the water — fresh seafood, bright lemon, and that unmistakable Amalfi coast sunshine bouncing off the sea. It was one of those exquisitely crafted meals that somehow feels like a celebration just because of where you are.

From there, we drove the short distance to Cetara, a fishing village that absolutely begs to be painted. The boats in the harbor, the jumble of houses, the curve of the coastline — it’s a composition waiting to happen in every direction. I pulled out my watercolors and did a small demo right by the shore, with the sounds of the sea and tourists as my soundtrack. I made a few quick sketches and took plenty of photos that I know will find their way into studio paintings later on.

Cetara is famous for its anchovies, but what stays with me isn’t the food — it’s the feeling. It’s the kind of place where life moves at its own rhythm, where fishermen mend their nets in the sun and feral cats play by the docks. You can’t help but breathe a little deeper there.

By the end of the day, our bags were a little heavier with ceramic treasures, our sketchbooks a little fuller, and our hearts completely content. These small, authentic corners of Italy are where I find endless inspiration — the kind that lingers long after the trip ends.

Follow along for Day 4 of our journey — a day that took us from the heart of Naples to the Bay, where we discovered unexpected connections, family history, and a deep sense of artistic kinship.