The stones gave way to dirt that was cool on my feet and suddenly when we reached the shade of the arbor, it was as if someone had turned the thermostat down 20 degrees. I don’t remember what the grown-ups were doing exactly, maybe tying up the vines. It was still too early to harvest the grapes. What I do recall vividly was the sweet burst when I bit into the grape that Nonno gave me, the light filtering through the vines and the quiet buzz of the bees.